It may seem fun to wait for a wave to sweep up the beach or along a harbour wall, but only 15cm of water can knock you off your feet. Wave dodging is for sunny, calm days and gentle waves! Watch out for surging waves - they don’t break, so they can knock you off of your feet more easily and drag you into deeper water. When a wave breaks it loses some of its power and momentum. They most commonly occur at low tide and break quickly with a lot of force making them dangerous for beginners. Dumping wavesĭumping waves break powerfully in shallow water and should be avoided. Start off in the shallow white water before you progress to deeper water and unbroken waves. They are ideal for beginner board riders. Spilling waves are softer and more consistent waves that break gradually as they approach the shore. That it always happens on the seventh wave is a myth, but sometimes it does! Spilling waves Waves move in sets and the ‘seventh wave’ – the bigger wave in the middle of a set – often comes further up the beach. south-west winds have a longer fetch and cause larger and more powerful waves.south-east winds have a shorter fetch and cause smaller waves.On the south coast of England, south-east winds (ones originating from the south-east and heading north-west), have less open sea across the English Channel than south-west winds blowing in from the Atlantic Ocean. How steeply a beach slopes or shelves and the topography of the sea bed near the beach will also affect the size and type of wave. how far the wave has travelled (known as the fetch). The size and power of a wave is influenced by three main factors: Depending on which is stronger, waves can be either constructive or destructive. The movement of a wave up the beach is known as the swash, its movement down the beach is known as the backwash. They can also be caused by seismic activity. Waves are formed by friction when the wind blows across the surface of the sea, causing a swell as water particles rotate and move forwards. One of the crucial elements of sea safety and for anyone who visits the coast, is to know the basics about waves so that they can keep themselves and others safe. They are one of the most exciting and impressive features of our UK and Irish coastlines and they are the primary force shaping coastal change. Powerful breaking waves have the potential to bring out the big kid in all of us.
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